Posted by Bud on October 23, 2009 at 11:03:45:
In Reply to: Pat Bruno reflects on 25 years of being a Chicago Food Critic posted by Bud on October 23, 2009 at 11:01:33:
Saluting Chicago's culinary A-Team
October 23, 2009
BY PAT BRUNO | Chicago Sun-Times
There are many hands that took part in laying the foundation on which Chicago's fine restaurants stand. Foodies will recognize many of the names that follow. The names that you won't see are those who work behind the scenes -- sous chefs, chefs de cuisine, line cooks, pastry chefs, prep cooks -- men and women we never hear about until they emerge from the shadow of their mentors and strike out on their own.
I cite some examples:
-- In its heyday, Le Francais in Wheeling (opened in 1973 and once dubbed the Best Restaurant in America by Bon Appetit magazine), along with its owner and mentor Jean Banchet, was a veritable audition stage for talent that eventually went out and became stars in their own right: Chris Koetke (now dean of Kendall's school of culinary arts), Roland Liccioni (now at Miramar in Highwood), Michael Lachowicz (Michael in Winnetka), Carrie Nahabedian (Naha), Mark Grosz (Oceanique in Evanston), Mary Beth Liccioni (Les Nomades) and many others.
-- The year was 1987. Rick Bayless and his wife, Deann, opened Frontera Grill on North Clark Street. Two years later, they opened Topolobampo in an adjoining space. At last, Chicagoans found out what real Mexican food ("alta cucina Mexicana") was all about. A few of those who worked with Bayless and went on to open their own upscale Mexican restaurants include Priscila Satkoff (Salpicon), Raul Arreola (Mixteco Grill), Geno Bahena (currently Los Moles), Ruben Beltran and Armando Gonzalez (Maya del Sol in Oak Park).
-- And then there is Jean Joho, who, in 1985, started his American culinary journey (coming from L'Auberge de l'lll in the Alsace) at Maxim's on North Astor, and now presides over a number of restaurants -- award-wining Everest, Brasserie Jo, Eiffel Tower Restaurant in Las Vegas -- all under the corporate umbrella of Lettuce Entertain You.
And so many others that have helped make Chicago a first-class restaurant city: Gale Gand and Rick Tramonto (Tru); Jackie Shen (Red Light); Charlie Trotter (Charlie Trotter's); Carlos and Debbie Nieto (Carlos' in Highland Park), Grant Achatz (Alinea), Gabino Sotelino (at one time Ambria and Un Grand Cafe; later at Mon Ami Gabi and Cafe Ba-Ba-Reeba!); Gordon Sinclair (at one time Gordon), Alex Dana (Rosebud Restaurants), Arnie Morton (the king of restaurant as theater), Paul Kahan (Blackbird and Publican); Tony Mantuano (Spiaggia), and John Coletta (Quartino).
And the list could go on and on. Thanks to all who have made my 25-year culinary odyssey a delicious voyage. Cheers to a few more good years.